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The clock is winding back to “Wiang Kumkam”, an ancient underground city
1294 : Assumed date when Phaya Mangrai built Wiang Kumkam city.
1524 : Floods in Chiang Mai killed hundreds of people. Records report “During the rainy season, floods caused great damage.
In 1984 the Fine Arts Department dredged the area to locate an ancient city flooded by the Mae Ping River and eventually succeeded when it discovered the remains of the chapel in Chang Eham Temple for the first time.
Today, history dating back hundreds of years is being uncovered to revive the liveliness of Wiang Kumkam city in Saraphi District, Chiang Mai Province.
It’s not entirely incorrect to say that Saraphi District today is “Wiang Kumkam” of ancient times, due to the evidence uncovered at 9 locations – the Temples of Kan Thom, Pu Tia, Chedi Liem, E-kang, Phra That Khao, Ku Pa Dom, Phraong Chaodam, Phaya Mengrai and Nong Nai, The evidence reveals the city planning as being these 9 locations which are in the vicinity of one another, just walking distance from the location of another ancient site. |
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Though the lifestyle of Wiang Kumkam people disappeared in tragedy, the tragic ending has revealed the charm and beauty of the ancient Wiang Kumkam community to the people of today.
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For example, artistic and architectural charms of the past are to be seen in the different shapes of pagodas in Chedi Liem Temple, or Ku Kham Temple. Pagodas, built in the Lop Buri style, were not too tall, but in proportion to their base of about 8 wah, 1 sok and 22 wah tall, an imitation from the one in Jamathewi Temple in Lamphun Province. In each of the 4 sides of the pagoda, there was a niche that accommodated 15 standing Buddha images. Over time, they have suffered from erosion, or are lost. The top of the pagoda came to a point, without the tiered umbrella of other pagodas. At first glance, it resembles a “stupa”
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A few steps further, lies Phra That Khao Temple standing majestically against the setting sun. The orange glow of the sunshine is softly reflected on a Buddha image, enhancing the image and creating an admirable depiction of the Lord Buddha. The remains around the Phra That Khao Temple could easily take the form of a chapel in our minds, as according to evidence uncovered, a chapel actually stood there in the 21st Buddhist Century. |
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A kilometer from Phra That Khao Temple lies Pu Bia Temple, belived to be the location of part of the moat and earthen bank of the ancient city of Wiang Kumkam. Vihara, pagodas, a chapel and parts of the altar are seen in and around Pu Bia Temple. The artifacts in Pu Bia Temple are a combination of Sukhothai and Lanna Period styles and there is a house that accommodates small bells. What’s more impressive, however, is the age of Pu Bia Temple, believed to have been built in the Phaya Tilokaraj Era, or around 1445. |
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E-kang Temple is also very old, as it was built in 1517 and represents pure Lanna art style. E-kang Temple was believed to be a “market” in ancient times, a significant trading center of Wiang Kumkam and a popular venue for shoppers, something like Pahurat, Siam Square, or Center Point today. E-kang Temple is not a so well-know as it was in ancient times, but it’s recovering slowly.
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Today, Wiang Kumkam is back in the embrace of the Lanna people. Thought its charm is not so much appreciated as it was in the past, the Lanna lifestyle has been inherited by the residents in Saraphi District today. Though city communities surround the town, the Lanna people still maintain their unique identity. |
It was known in the past as “the land on which flowers never fade, candle never extinguish and joss sticks never go out”, as the Lanna people have a traditional strong faith in their religion and religious rites, ancient sites and long-established culture. Joss stick incense and the exquisite fragrance from a whole variety of flowers is still plentiful here, as the Lanna people still make provision for their temple as an expression of their deep faith and piety.
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Today, Wiang Kumkam is gradually being unveiled once again as the Chiang Mai Provincial Administration, in cooperation with the Government, has allocated a budget to further renovate Wiang Kumkam and organize activities to publicize the ancient city among the local population and visitors. Wiang Kumkam now awaits your visit to appreciate the historical mystery, lifestyle and beliefs of the Lanna people. |
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